A Guide to What Can Go Wrong When Getting Clothes Tailored in China

A Guide to What Can Go Wrong When Getting Clothes Tailored in China
Nov 05, 2014 By eChinacities.com

Cheap – that’s exactly what custom-made can end up looking like here if you're not careful. In your mind, the dress you imagined was a classy 1920's style. Instead, you look like you borrowed a house-dress from someone's granny. How do you avoid the common pitfalls of getting clothes tailor-made in China? Here's what might have gone wrong. 

A Guide to What Can Go Wrong When Getting Clothes Tailored in China
Photo: fronx

1) It doesn't look how I wanted

Problem: Pattern

When getting something tailor-made in China, you will have several options with regards to how to explain your ideas to your tailor. Even if you have perfect Chinese, it is essential that you bring an existing picture or a sketch of what you want with detailed seams, darts, pleats, etc. If showing a picture, try to find one with a lighter-coloured fabric, which will allow the tailors to see the seams. Do not leave it up to the imagination of your tailor to figure out what you want. Chances are your tastes will differ greatly, leaving you disappointed.

If you are looking to make a basic garment, such as a suit or dress shirt or a traditional Chinese qipao, the tailor will have ready-made options to guide you in making a choice. It is a good idea to try the clothing on before paying to have it made. That will allow you to see if the garment works for your body type before spending a lot of money on it. Note that even a basic men's dress shirt will have details like cuff and collar types, darts, pleats and so on that will completely alter the look and fit of the garment. If you are not detail-oriented, try bringing in an existing garment that you like and ask them to copy it. Point out the aspects you like and make sure they know you want it the same or modify parts you don't like. Chinese tailors are often quite skilled at reproducing an existing piece.

2 It doesn't feel right

Problem: Fabric

Several people do not realize that you don't have to buy fabric directly from the tailor you are using. Tailors will sometimes get good prices on fabric, but will also often times push you to choose a fabric on which they can make a bigger profit. You may instead look for wholesale fabric markets in larger cities where you can get excellent prices on a variety of fabrics. Do not rely solely on the guidance of the tailor to choose a fabric.

If you are having them copy an existing garment, first identify the type of fabric of your existing garment by checking the tags. If you are using a picture without a fabric description, do your best to find a similar garment in your wardrobe or in a store and find out the type of fabric used.

The Chinese garment industry is plagued with polyester, the cheapest and arguably the most uncomfortable fabric on the market. Polyester is a man-made plastic derivative. In a hot and humid climate, you may essentially feel as though you are wrapped in a plastic bag when wearing polyester. When purchasing a fabric, vendors will often "hide" the fact that it is a poly blend. For example, if it has "some" wool in it, they might claim it to be simply "wool". Only when prodded will they give you the exact composition, which might be only 30% wool and 70% polyester. To identify it yourself, polyester has a distinct scratchiness when rubbed against itself. It dries quickly and doesn't need to be ironed, making it a fabric of choice in China. However, it will also retain odors even after washing and is not absorbent, making it quite uncomfortable in humid climates.

If you are paying for tailoring, is it often best to opt for natural fibers, which are usually of higher quality. Wool will have a distinct "sheep" smell, especially when wet. Real silk will be warm to the touch when rubbed together and also has a distinct smell when humid. Keep in mind silk varies in quality. The best way to identify it is by first touching the real thing and comparing. If you have a silk scarf, bring it with you when shopping as a reference point. For cottons, check the elasticity by pulling the fabric across and upwards. 100% cotton will give, but will not bubble or be more stretchy in one direction. If it is, the fabric is most likely a blend. 

3) It doesn't fit right

Problem: Measurements

Anyone in the garment industry knows sizing differs between Asia, North America and Europe. It may not come as a surprise that Asian sizing is on the smaller side. Even bags and purses are made smaller for the Asian market. Tailoring is not necessarily an exception to that rule. Too many tailors in China will use the general sizing and angles they are most accustomed to working with, which might differ from your figure.

A particular area or concern will likely be back length (nape to waist), armhole size, upper arm circumference, arm length and neckline depth. As they measure you, tell them where you want the garment to land (at the waist, just below, etc). Make sure the pattern and seam style you are choosing is one flattering to your body type and not simply the choice of the tailor. For men's shirts, tailors will often assume that a man with a larger neck measurement is on the heavy-set side, when in reality he might just be tall and have a proportionate frame. Particularly if you are giving measurements to the tailor to get a shirt or a suit made without the person present, it may be useful to tell them that the person is "bu pang", literally, not fat. 

4) It looks cheap

Problem: Quality Control

Chinese tailors will unfortunately not always have the same eye for detail as you might expect. Do not be afraid to be very specific. When altering clothing, make sure you specify that you want them to use matching colour thread, otherwise they might not bother to change it and you will end up with a patchy looking job. Remember, you do not have to pay for what you did not order. If you were elaborate in describing all details you wanted (it might help to ask them to write it down) and one is missing, have them redo it. It is very important to be specific before starting as the damage can sometimes be irreversible. If they see that you are not certain about it, it is not uncommon for them to pressure you into taking it as it is, including telling you how beautiful it looks on you. It takes guts, but you might need to have it refit up to three or four times until it is right. If you don't think you can handle the pressure, take a friend with you to avoid a one-on-one standoff.

If all of this seems a little daunting, another great option is to buy clothes and have it altered to fit you better. Always buy to fit the largest part of your body. For jackets, make sure the shoulders fit; the rest can be altered. For women, buy pants or skirts to fit the largest part of your hips. Seams can almost always be taken in, but fabric usually can't be added. To get the best results, you might need to start learning a little bit about sewing basics. If you speak Chinese, ask you tailor for a quick tutorial. They will often be happy to share their knowledge and skill with someone, especially if you are a foreigner conversing with them in Chinese. It may be worth it, because a fine cut suit can make any man look great!

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Keywords: clothes tailored in China tailor-made in China

5 Comments

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bill8899

Butt wear to go if over 6 feet 2 littles tall?

Nov 07, 2014 20:37 Report Abuse

Incongnito

Guys, don't intend to get high-couture clothing and Italian design if you're not willing to pay well a professional. There are Indian tailors in Singapore and HK, and Chinese ones in Shanghai's tailor market in Nanpu bridge who know their profession very well. Take the time to browse around and have your wallet open for quality and design. Haven't got details at the moment, but drop me a line and I'll get back to you with the ones I use in SH and HK.

Nov 07, 2014 13:32 Report Abuse

Englteachted

Eorth is right why would anyone trust a lazy scammer to tailor their clothes?

Nov 05, 2014 13:38 Report Abuse

Kaiwen

The biggest problem with tailored clothes in China is that they never freakin' do as you request. You can explain twenty times until you are blue in the face and watch their heads nodding in agreement, but rarely if ever do they listen.

Nov 05, 2014 10:51 Report Abuse